The arbor bearings were shot and I don’t have an arbor press so its off to a shop. The top and other parts just needed cleaning, except that there was a small sawdust fire inside that blistered a little paint. The worst problem for me is taking the stand down to bare metal – was the coating galvanizing? Very hard to remove to get at surface rust. The original motor (Marathon) is at the shop for new bearings and cord. Hi, GREAT job, and I was lucky to find it. One last thing is you can fill the measurement lines and letters in the two fence rails with red dye and that really makes them stand out. A trick with these saws is take a piece of cheap MDF and then screw on a hickory piece that fits in the miter slot then you can screw down various throwaway scraps to the MDF to hold work to make custom cuts that are very accurate. I myself don’t use that trick instead I just triple check the fence every time. Of course that destroys the accuracy of the fence but that’s OK because you should be using the miter slots for accuracy not the fence. One trick my dad used to do with the fence is leave the top bolts loose a bit so that if the work starts to catch in the blade it will push the fence over a bit and not jam. It is also a very good idea to replace the switch with one that has a huge giant red STOP button and a tiny green GO button so you can slam the saw off quickly. Another thing is unlike most table saws the insert in this saw just lays there and isn’t screwed into the table, so a violent enough kickback can also throw the insert out and the insert can fall into the saw while it’s running or be picked up by the blade and thrown across the shop. It is easy to get off square and cause the work to jam between the blade and the fence thus causing a kickback. If it does not have a thermal overload protector then you should buy a motor controller switch with one and use it instead of the little toggle switch. Last you should look carefully at the motor. Next, Delta made a set of casters that were on a rack that was designed to fit right into the legs of the saw. The motor will last longer, run way cooler and it won’t bog down and throw the breaker if your ripping a long bit of plywood.
Second, you really really really want to convert the motor to run off 240v if the motor has the wires brought out to do this. First yes it can cut metal with the correct saw blade.
You did a beautiful job with yours.Ī couple things you should know about this saw. My father owned it for years and gave it to me. Mine came from the factory with the saw and a joiner attached to a larger base. P.S., thanks for the attached manual, it will remind me where every piece goes after I receive the replacement parts and start the rebuild.
I almost want to keep the saw but I don't do wood work and it won't cut metal I'm happy to pass it on to someone that will put it to use. All iron and steel construction the engineering was spot on of our American industrial might. It is one of those mechanical treasures you don't find anymore. I've been working at rebuilding and making machinery for almost fifty years and am so happy I offered to rebuild the saw. Him not being mechanically minded can't go through the saw and replace all the spindle and motor bearings. The saw has sat in my metalworking shop for ten years and after sitting since 1977 when he finished his clock, my son's father in-law wants to bring it back to a useful life. I now have the most beautiful Grandfather's A brilliant man that purchased the saw just so he could make a Grandfather's clock from some cherry wood he had collected thirty years earlier after a tornado strike. Ten years ago I inherited one of these fantastic machines from my 97 year old neighbor. Dani, kudos to you for tackling such a wonderful project!
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